malaga

Sevilla & Malaga: an Ode to Travel Guides

It is quite humbling to refer to a guide book for a city in which you’ve lived for over two months. Consider this my public service announcement: sometimes those guide books can be more helpful than you’d ever imagine. Last week, my two best friends from college spent their spring break with me in Sevilla and Malaga. One of them, Rachael, insisted that she buy PHAIDON’s Wallpaper Guide to Sevilla. After much hesitation, explaining how I had already picked out some fantastic restaurants to show them, I gave in. Needless to say, even I hadn’t managed to find all of Sevilla’s hidden gastronomic gems, but our Wallpaper Guide certainly did.

We first utilized the guide book at lunch on Sunday, at Puerto Delicia. This beautiful outdoor patio was mentioned in the book for its location, as it sits right on the Guadalquivir River, overlooking the beautiful architecture of Sevilla. The food, however, impressed us just as much as the view. Sitting underneath the beaming sun with a slight breeze, we enjoyed a tomato and mozzarella salad, accompanied by field greens and pesto vinaigrette. The dish was just as beautiful as it was flavorful, and I would return to Puerto Delicia solely for that salad. We also had paella, with a perfect balance of salt, saffron and seafood, what I would consider the holy trinity when it comes to paella. Finally, our salmon a la plancha, or grilled salmon, was juicy and flavorful. We were stuffed until dinner.

¡Que Deliciosa!

We used the Wallpaper Guide twice more in Sevilla for dinner, at Contenedor and Eslava. Contenedor was well off the beaten path, but worth the walk. Here, the chef changes the menu twice a day and uses locally sourced, sustainable ingredients. While on the pricier side, I managed to legitimize my empty wallet with the fact that I was eating fresh hake, caught that same day, in a wonderfully flavored broth with fresh, local, perfectly cooked swiss chard. I will definitely be bringing my parents back to Contenedor. Meanwhile, Eslava truly gives you a bang for your buck. The three of us shared six tapas, a bottle of wine and a dessert sampler platter, for about 13 euro per person! The Wallpaper Guide recommended the duck confit, which, naturally, we ordered. I am not particular to duck confit, but this was an exception. It melted in my mouth with so much flavor, accompanied by the perfect pan sauce and roasted potatoes. I felt like I was back in DC at Founding Farmers. Ironically enough, Eslava was also ranked as the #2 restaurant (out of 611!) in Sevilla by Trip Advisor, which brings me to my next point….

Since Malaga didn’t have its own version of Wallpaper Guides, we referred to Trip Advisor while we were there. We ended up at the #1 ranked restaurant, El Tapeo de Cervantes. A Trip Advisor review gave us the head’s up for how small the restaurant would be- literally, it was a closet, with tables on both sides and about 4 feet in between each, just enough for a waiter to sneak by and deliver plates. However, the quality of the food instantly distracted us from the tight squeeze. We started with a salad of arugula, goat cheese and a compote of frutas del bosque, or fruits of the forrest (more or less, berries). I have been longing for arugula since my arrival in Spain, and this salad definitely filled my void. It was so refreshing, with many different textures and tastes. I could have eaten a second helping all by myself. Another one of my favorite dishes was the mushroom and squash risotto. When I say mushroom, I don’t mean tiny little button mushrooms. These were full on, whole, wild mushrooms. They were so tender and buttery, I felt like Alice in Wonderland. The squash, another ingredient I have been missing since being in Spain, was just as tender and flavorful. Rachael gave me all of her squash because she could tell how much I was enjoying myself.

After a week of dining out for every meal, I was happy to return to my kitchenette and cafeteria. However, I will never forget the amazing meals I had the pleasure of enjoying in Spain with my friends from home, and will continue to refer to both Wallpaper Guides and Trip Advisor for the remainder of my travels. Next Wallpaper Guides trip: Amsterdam!!